Xaghra (Gozo)

A hilltop village with 5,600-year-old neighbours

Xaghra (pronounced sha-ra) sits on a plateau above Ramla Bay, Gozo’s best beach, and holds two of the most significant sites on the island: Ġgantija — one of the world’s oldest freestanding stone structures, older than Stonehenge and the Pyramids — and Calypso Cave, the mythological location where Homer’s nymph was said to have kept Odysseus for seven years.

The village itself is quiet and well-maintained, with a main square (Pjazza Indipendenza), a large parish church, and a few cafés. It’s not a tourist town — it’s a functioning Gozitan village that happens to have extraordinary archaeology on its doorstep.

For a Gozo day trip, Xaghra fits naturally into a morning circuit from Victoria (Rabat, Gozo): Ġgantija first, then Calypso Cave viewpoint, then down the hill to Ramla Bay for a swim before lunch.

Ġgantija Temples: the oldest freestanding structures in the world

The Ġgantija Temples (from the Maltese word for “giant”) are a pair of Neolithic temples built around 3600-3200 BC — making them older than Malta’s other UNESCO prehistoric sites and among the oldest built structures in the world. Heritage Malta manages the site, which includes a good interpretive centre before the temples themselves.

The temples are made from enormous coralline limestone blocks — some weighing over 50 tonnes — fitted together without mortar or metal tools. The precision of the stonework is remarkable. The site includes the remains of libation holes, carved decorations, and a ritual enclosure.

Allow 60-90 minutes for the site and visitor centre. The Heritage Malta audio guide is useful for explaining the ritual purpose of the different chambers.

Ġgantija is covered by the same multi-day temple pass that covers Hagar Qim, Mnajdra, and Tarxien. For a guided visit to multiple temples on a single tour:

From Malta: Gozo day trip including Ġgantija Temples

If you’re already on Gozo and want to explore independently, a tuk-tuk tour lets you cover Xaghra and surrounding sites at a comfortable pace:

Gozo: 6-hour tuk-tuk tour with private chauffeur

Calypso Cave and the Ramla Bay viewpoint

The Calypso Cave is a small natural cave on the north cliff above Ramla Bay, associated in tradition — and by Homer scholars — with the nymph Calypso who kept Odysseus in her cave on the island of Ogygia. Modern scholars disagree about whether Ogygia was Gozo, but Gozo’s tourist board has committed to the identification enthusiastically.

The cave itself is closed to the public for safety reasons (the interior is unstable). What you see is an opening in the cliff face and, much more importantly, the view from the adjacent viewpoint: Ramla Bay’s red-gold sand below you, framed by the valley walls, with the Mediterranean stretching to the horizon. It’s one of the finest views in the Maltese islands.

The viewpoint is free and reached by a 15-minute walk from the village square (follow the signs from the main road). There’s a small parking area at the top.

Where to eat in Xaghra

Ta’ Rikardu (in Victoria, 4 km): technically not in Xaghra, but the most characterful food option close by. A working Gozo farmhouse where the owner makes his own goat’s cheese and ftira (Gozitan bread), serves local wine from barrels, and has been doing so since 1990. Lunch only.

Oleander Restaurant (Xaghra village): in the main square, reliable for pasta, lampuki, and Maltese dishes. Good value, popular with locals.

Cafeteria at Ġgantija: basic coffee and snacks at the Heritage Malta visitor centre. Fine for a break between sites.

How Xaghra fits into a Gozo itinerary

On a Gozo day trip from Malta, Xaghra usually appears in the morning slot:

1. Ġgantija Temples (60-90 min, Heritage Malta)
2. Walk to Calypso Cave viewpoint (15 min walk, 30 min there)
3. Drive or walk down to Ramla Bay for swimming (30 min)
4. Lunch in Marsalforn (20 min drive)
5. Continue to Victoria (Rabat, Gozo) and the Citadella

This circuit covers Xaghra’s main sites and connects them to the rest of a Gozo day without feeling rushed.

Getting to Xaghra

From Victoria: 4 km, 8 minutes by car or taxi.

From Mġarr ferry port: 20 minutes by car or organised tour.

From Malta by day tour: Most full-day Gozo tours include Ġgantija.

By Gozo bus: Routes serve Xaghra from Victoria. Journey from Victoria around 10 minutes.

Frequently asked questions about Xaghra

Are Ġgantija Temples worth visiting?

Yes, particularly for those with any interest in prehistory or archaeology. These are genuinely among the oldest structures in the world, and the site is well-managed by Heritage Malta. Even visitors who aren’t archaeology enthusiasts find the scale and age of the stones striking.

Is Calypso Cave actually the cave from Homer?

Almost certainly not — the Odyssey is mythology rather than geography, and there’s no consensus on where Ogygia was. But the cave is real, the view from the cliff is extraordinary, and the story is a good one. Worth visiting for the viewpoint regardless of the mythology.

How far is Xaghra from Ramla Bay?

About 2 km downhill by road, or 15-20 minutes on foot by the steep path. Most people drive or take a taxi.

How long should I spend in Xaghra?

Two to three hours: 90 minutes for Ġgantija (essential), 30 minutes for Calypso Cave viewpoint, plus time for a coffee in the village square. It pairs naturally with a swim at Ramla Bay.