Dwejra & Inland Sea

After the Azure Window: what Dwejra is now

On 8 March 2017, after days of severe storms, the Azure Window — Gozo’s most iconic natural feature, a limestone arch that rose 28 metres above the sea at Dwejra Bay — collapsed into the Mediterranean. The news made international headlines. Photographs of the arch as it stood are now historical documents.

This is important to say clearly for visitors: the Azure Window no longer exists. You cannot see it. What you see at Dwejra Bay now is open sea where the arch once stood, with the remaining stump of rock at the water’s edge. Some visitors arrive expecting the arch and are confused when it isn’t there. Save yourself the confusion.

What remains at Dwejra is still genuinely worth visiting, and in some respects the site is less crowded now than when the arch was the automatic centrepiece of every Gozo itinerary.

What Dwejra actually is

Dwejra is a complex of interconnected geological features on Gozo’s western coast:

The Inland Sea (Il-Qawra): a natural lagoon connected to the open sea by a narrow tunnel through the rock. Small traditional boats (luzzijiet) take visitors through the tunnel into the open water on the other side. The Inland Sea is a sheltered, extraordinarily calm pool that’s perfect for swimming and snorkelling. The tunnel passage is the highlight — emerging from the dark into the sea on the other side is a striking experience.

Dwejra Bay: where the Azure Window stood. The bay itself is ruggedly beautiful, with dramatic limestone formations, clear water, and good snorkelling from the rocks. The location of the arch is marked by a sunken reef — visible to divers.

The Blue Hole: a circular underwater chimney immediately west of Dwejra Bay, about 15 metres in diameter and dropping 15 metres to an opening in the cliff face at sea level. Beyond the opening is open sea. The Blue Hole is consistently ranked among the top dive sites in the Mediterranean and among the top 10 in the world for experienced divers. The chimney walls are covered in sea fans, nudibranchs, and grouper.

Fungus Rock (Il-Gebla tal-General): a flat-topped islet in Dwejra Bay, named after the rare plant (Cynomorium coccineum) that grows on it and was once harvested by the Knights of Malta for medicinal use. The rock is protected — no landing — but visible from the shore and striking in its own right.

The Inland Sea boat trip

Small boats operated by local fishermen take visitors through the tunnel and into open water. The journey through the tunnel (about 30 metres long, hewn through solid rock) is the main event — in calm conditions, the contrast between the dark enclosed passage and the sudden emergence into open Mediterranean sea is memorable.

Boats depart from the Inland Sea shore, charge per person (around 5-8 €), and make the trip in about 15-20 minutes. No booking required — turn up and negotiate directly with the boatmen.

Conditions caveat: When there’s significant swell, the tunnel becomes impassable and the boats don’t run. The western exposure of Dwejra makes it vulnerable to westerly and northwesterly swells. In winter (November-March), cancellations are common. In summer (June-September), calm days are the norm but not guaranteed.

Diving at the Blue Hole

The Blue Hole is one of Malta’s premier dive sites and the main reason experienced divers include Gozo in their itineraries. The dive profile: descend through the chimney, emerge through the arch at the bottom into open sea, dive along the wall, and return through the arch.

Several dive operators in San Lawrenz (5 km from Dwejra) and Marsalforn run guided dives here for qualified divers. It is not a beginner site — the arch entrance at depth and the open-water exposure require solid buoyancy control.

Snorkelling on the surface of the Blue Hole is possible and gives a partial view of the underwater structure. Water clarity is exceptional — 25-30m visibility on a good day.

Winter diving cancellations: Diving at Dwejra is frequently cancelled November-March due to swell and strong westerly winds. If the Inland Sea is running boats, conditions are probably acceptable for diving — if the boats are stopped, diving is definitely off.

Where to walk at Dwejra

The coastal path around Dwejra Bay is excellent. From the main car park, paths lead:

• North along the cliff towards the Azure Window site and then continuing to the dramatic karstic plateau above — a 30-minute walk with views across to Fungus Rock and the open sea
• West along the cliff to a series of small swimming coves accessible by scrambling
• East towards the Inland Sea and the trail up to the viewpoints above the lagoon

The rocky platforms immediately above Dwejra Bay have good snorkelling access directly into the bay.

For a fuller picture of walking routes across the island, see the Gozo coastal hiking guide — the Dwejra stretch connects into longer routes north towards San Lawrenz and south towards Xlendi.

Diving logistics: certification, operators, and cost

Most dive centres serving Dwejra are based in nearby San Lawrenz or Marsalforn, and will collect divers from Dwejra directly or run the Blue Hole as part of a two-tank day. A single guided dive at the Blue Hole typically runs around 40-55€ including gear rental; full-day two-tank packages are better value if you’re diving more than once.

PADI Open Water certification is the minimum requirement most operators ask for — the site’s depth and swell exposure make it unsuitable for total beginners, though a supervised introductory “discover scuba” dive in the calmer Inland Sea is sometimes offered as an alternative. For a broader look at where else in Malta and Gozo to dive, see the best dive sites in Malta and Gozo and the Gozo Blue Hole diving guide.

Where to eat at Dwejra

Inland Sea Restaurant: at the Inland Sea shore, next to the boat launch. Basic Maltese food (rabbit, pasta, fish) at fair prices. The terrace above the lagoon has a good view. Predictably rustic — it’s the right match for the setting.

San Lawrenz village (5 km east): the nearest village with more options. Quieter and more residential; a few small cafés.

For a proper meal, Victoria (Rabat, Gozo) is 20 minutes away and has the island’s best range of restaurants.

How Dwejra fits into a Gozo itinerary

On a Gozo day trip from Malta, Dwejra is typically the afternoon destination after a morning in Victoria (Rabat, Gozo) and lunch at Xlendi or Marsalforn.

Sequence: Victoria/Citadella (morning) → Xlendi or Marsalforn (lunch) → Dwejra (early afternoon, Inland Sea boat + bay walk) → Mġarr ferry (late afternoon).

For a full-day Gozo circuit from Valletta that includes Dwejra:

Gozo full day: Ġgantija Temples, salt pans, and Dwejra

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For the adventurous Gozo jeep or quad experience that covers the western coast:

Malta: Gozo full-day jeep tour with lunch and boat transfers

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Planning your time on the ground

Dwejra rewards a slow visit more than a rushed one. Because the site is a cluster of features rather than a single monument, it works best when you decide in advance what you came for: the tunnel boat, a swim, a dive, or simply the coastline. If the boat is your priority, the Inland Sea boat tour guide explains what to expect from the passage in more detail. Visitors who want to get in the water without a tank will find more ideas in the best snorkelling spots in Malta.

Bring sturdy shoes. The rock around the bay is uneven and can be slippery, and the paths above the lagoon are not paved. A hat, water and sun protection matter as well, since there is very little shade once you leave the shoreline. The Malta packing list covers the basics for a coastal day like this one.

If you are unsure which season suits you, the best time to visit Malta guide helps you weigh calm seas against crowds. Dwejra is a good example of why the shoulder months matter: the water is inviting, the light is soft, and the boatmen are more likely to be running.

Why the light matters here

Photographers tend to underrate Dwejra now that the arch is gone, but the bay still offers strong compositions. Late in the day the limestone turns warm and the shape of Fungus Rock stands out against the water. Early morning is quieter and gives you the Inland Sea at its calmest. The cliffs above the lagoon are the best place to understand how the sea reaches the lagoon through the rock, which is a satisfying piece of geology to see for yourself. For other vantage points around the islands, see top viewpoints for photography in Malta.

Combining Dwejra with the rest of Gozo

Dwejra pairs naturally with Gozo’s prehistoric heritage. The temples at Ġgantija and the village of Xaghra make a good contrast with the wild coastline: stone built by people thousands of years ago in the morning, stone shaped by the sea in the afternoon. The Ġgantija temples guide helps you decide how long to give them.

If Gozo is your base for several days, the Gozo-only 3-day itinerary gives Dwejra a calmer slot than a single day trip can, and the top things to do in Gozo lists what else is worth fitting around it. Travellers deciding where to sleep can compare options in where to stay: Gozo or Malta, and the wider Gozo destination page gives the island overview.

For a similar boat-and-sea-cave experience on the main island, look at Blue Grotto, which suits visitors who cannot make the crossing to Gozo.

Getting to Dwejra

From Victoria: 20 minutes by car. Follow signs for San Lawrenz and then Dwejra. The road ends at the Inland Sea car park.

From Mġarr ferry port: 35 minutes by car.

By Gozo HOHO bus: The Dwejra stop is on the standard Gozo hop-on hop-off route. Check current schedule.

By taxi from Victoria: Around 12-15 €. Taxis are the practical option if you don’t have a car.

Before any of these, you have to cross from the main island. The Cirkewwa ferry guide covers the crossing, and the Gozo day trip guide shows how to build the day around it. If you plan to drive, read the Gozo self-drive day trip and the notes on driving on the left in Malta first. Those relying on buses should see the Gozo hop-on bus guide.

Anyone considering learning to dive before they come can look at the guide to diving for beginners in Malta and the PADI courses guide, which explain how to get qualified in time for a Blue Hole dive.

Is Dwejra worth visiting today?

Frequently asked questions about Dwejra

Can I still see the Azure Window at Dwejra?

No. The Azure Window collapsed on 8 March 2017. The arch is gone. What remains is open sea at the site and some scattered limestone debris underwater, visible to divers. Photographs and video of the arch are widely available if you want to see what it looked like.

Is Dwejra still worth visiting without the Azure Window?

Yes. The Inland Sea tunnel boat trip, the Blue Hole (for divers and snorkellers), Fungus Rock, and the coastal walking are all independently worthwhile. The bay is less photogenic than it was with the arch, but it’s still a dramatic and interesting coastal environment.

Is the Inland Sea suitable for swimming?

Yes — it’s sheltered, calm, and has good visibility. The lagoon is shallow at the edges and deeper in the centre. The boat trip through the tunnel is worth doing even if you’re not swimming.

When is the best time to visit Dwejra?

April-June and September-October, when weather conditions are more stable and summer crowds (particularly divers and day-trippers) are lower. Avoid January-March when westerly swells frequently cancel boat trips and diving.

Is Dwejra good for snorkelling without diving certification?

Yes. The surface of the Blue Hole is accessible to snorkellers, and the rocks around Dwejra Bay have good marine life. A wetsuit adds comfort but isn’t essential from May through October.

How far is Dwejra from Xlendi?

About 12 km by road through the interior (25 minutes). There’s no direct coastal road connecting them.

Do I need to be a certified diver to see the Blue Hole?

To dive it, yes — most operators require at least PADI Open Water certification because of the depth and open-water exposure at the arch. Snorkellers can experience the surface of the Blue Hole without any certification, and some operators offer a supervised introductory dive in the calmer Inland Sea for uncertified visitors.