Dwejra & Inland Sea

After the Azure Window: what Dwejra is now

On 8 March 2017, after days of severe storms, the Azure Window — Gozo’s most iconic natural feature, a limestone arch that rose 28 metres above the sea at Dwejra Bay — collapsed into the Mediterranean. The news made international headlines. Photographs of the arch as it stood are now historical documents.

This is important to say clearly for visitors: the Azure Window no longer exists. You cannot see it. What you see at Dwejra Bay now is open sea where the arch once stood, with the remaining stump of rock at the water’s edge. Some visitors arrive expecting the arch and are confused when it isn’t there. Save yourself the confusion.

What remains at Dwejra is still genuinely worth visiting, and in some respects the site is less crowded now than when the arch was the automatic centrepiece of every Gozo itinerary.

What Dwejra actually is

Dwejra is a complex of interconnected geological features on Gozo’s western coast:

The Inland Sea (Il-Qawra): a natural lagoon connected to the open sea by a narrow tunnel through the rock. Small traditional boats (luzzijiet) take visitors through the tunnel into the open water on the other side. The Inland Sea is a sheltered, extraordinarily calm pool that’s perfect for swimming and snorkelling. The tunnel passage is the highlight — emerging from the dark into the sea on the other side is a striking experience.

Dwejra Bay: where the Azure Window stood. The bay itself is ruggedly beautiful, with dramatic limestone formations, clear water, and good snorkelling from the rocks. The location of the arch is marked by a sunken reef — visible to divers.

The Blue Hole: a circular underwater chimney immediately west of Dwejra Bay, about 15 metres in diameter and dropping 15 metres to an opening in the cliff face at sea level. Beyond the opening is open sea. The Blue Hole is consistently ranked among the top dive sites in the Mediterranean and among the top 10 in the world for experienced divers. The chimney walls are covered in sea fans, nudibranchs, and grouper.

Fungus Rock (Il-Gebla tal-General): a flat-topped islet in Dwejra Bay, named after the rare plant (Cynomorium coccineum) that grows on it and was once harvested by the Knights of Malta for medicinal use. The rock is protected — no landing — but visible from the shore and striking in its own right.

The Inland Sea boat trip

Small boats operated by local fishermen take visitors through the tunnel and into open water. The journey through the tunnel (about 30 metres long, hewn through solid rock) is the main event — in calm conditions, the contrast between the dark enclosed passage and the sudden emergence into open Mediterranean sea is memorable.

Boats depart from the Inland Sea shore, charge per person (around 5-8 €), and make the trip in about 15-20 minutes. No booking required — turn up and negotiate directly with the boatmen.

Conditions caveat: When there’s significant swell, the tunnel becomes impassable and the boats don’t run. The western exposure of Dwejra makes it vulnerable to westerly and northwesterly swells. In winter (November-March), cancellations are common. In summer (June-September), calm days are the norm but not guaranteed.

Diving at the Blue Hole

The Blue Hole is one of Malta’s premier dive sites and the main reason experienced divers include Gozo in their itineraries. The dive profile: descend through the chimney, emerge through the arch at the bottom into open sea, dive along the wall, and return through the arch.

Several dive operators in San Lawrenz (5 km from Dwejra) and Marsalforn run guided dives here for qualified divers. It is not a beginner site — the arch entrance at depth and the open-water exposure require solid buoyancy control.

Snorkelling on the surface of the Blue Hole is possible and gives a partial view of the underwater structure. Water clarity is exceptional — 25-30m visibility on a good day.

Winter diving cancellations: Diving at Dwejra is frequently cancelled November-March due to swell and strong westerly winds. If the Inland Sea is running boats, conditions are probably acceptable for diving — if the boats are stopped, diving is definitely off.

Where to walk at Dwejra

The coastal path around Dwejra Bay is excellent. From the main car park, paths lead:

• North along the cliff towards the Azure Window site and then continuing to the dramatic karstic plateau above — a 30-minute walk with views across to Fungus Rock and the open sea
• West along the cliff to a series of small swimming coves accessible by scrambling
• East towards the Inland Sea and the trail up to the viewpoints above the lagoon

The rocky platforms immediately above Dwejra Bay have good snorkelling access directly into the bay.

Where to eat at Dwejra

Inland Sea Restaurant: at the Inland Sea shore, next to the boat launch. Basic Maltese food (rabbit, pasta, fish) at fair prices. The terrace above the lagoon has a good view. Predictably rustic — it’s the right match for the setting.

San Lawrenz village (5 km east): the nearest village with more options. Quieter and more residential; a few small cafés.

For a proper meal, Victoria (Rabat, Gozo) is 20 minutes away and has the island’s best range of restaurants.

How Dwejra fits into a Gozo itinerary

On a Gozo day trip from Malta, Dwejra is typically the afternoon destination after a morning in Victoria (Rabat, Gozo) and lunch at Xlendi or Marsalforn.

Sequence: Victoria/Citadella (morning) → Xlendi or Marsalforn (lunch) → Dwejra (early afternoon, Inland Sea boat + bay walk) → Mġarr ferry (late afternoon).

For a full-day Gozo circuit from Valletta that includes Dwejra:

Gozo full day: Ġgantija Temples, salt pans, and Dwejra

For the adventurous Gozo jeep or quad experience that covers the western coast:

Malta: Gozo full-day jeep tour with lunch and boat transfers

Getting to Dwejra

From Victoria: 20 minutes by car. Follow signs for San Lawrenz and then Dwejra. The road ends at the Inland Sea car park.

From Mġarr ferry port: 35 minutes by car.

By Gozo HOHO bus: The Dwejra stop is on the standard Gozo hop-on hop-off route. Check current schedule.

By taxi from Victoria: Around 12-15 €. Taxis are the practical option if you don’t have a car.

Frequently asked questions about Dwejra

Can I still see the Azure Window at Dwejra?

No. The Azure Window collapsed on 8 March 2017. The arch is gone. What remains is open sea at the site and some scattered limestone debris underwater, visible to divers. Photographs and video of the arch are widely available if you want to see what it looked like.

Is Dwejra still worth visiting without the Azure Window?

Yes. The Inland Sea tunnel boat trip, the Blue Hole (for divers and snorkellers), Fungus Rock, and the coastal walking are all independently worthwhile. The bay is less photogenic than it was with the arch, but it’s still a dramatic and interesting coastal environment.

Is the Inland Sea suitable for swimming?

Yes — it’s sheltered, calm, and has good visibility. The lagoon is shallow at the edges and deeper in the centre. The boat trip through the tunnel is worth doing even if you’re not swimming.

When is the best time to visit Dwejra?

April-June and September-October, when weather conditions are more stable and summer crowds (particularly divers and day-trippers) are lower. Avoid January-March when westerly swells frequently cancel boat trips and diving.

Is Dwejra good for snorkelling without diving certification?

Yes. The surface of the Blue Hole is accessible to snorkellers, and the rocks around Dwejra Bay have good marine life. A wetsuit adds comfort but isn’t essential from May through October.

How far is Dwejra from Xlendi?

About 12 km by road through the interior (25 minutes). There’s no direct coastal road connecting them.